Orange wine is suddenly popping up on wine lists across the country, but this new trend is born of the oldest winemaking technique in the world. The throwback process is catching on as a natural alternative to mass-produced wine, a business that’s come under increasing scrutiny lately for chemically altering its product. Today, vineyards from California to Slovenia are making orange wine, and one 18-hectare vineyard in Northern Italy is largely credited with its revival. I go inside the making of orange wine for CoDesign and tell the story of its revival.